USMagazine, Wednesday, November 14, 2012, 6:30am (PST)
Guy's Big Bomb.
Food Network star Guy Fieri's recently opened NYC restaurant, Guy's American Kitchen & Bar, was viciously (and hilariously) savaged by the New York Times in a scathing review published Nov. 13.
"Why[is] the kind of cooking you celebrate on television . . . treated with so little respect at Guy's American Kitchen & Bar?" food critic Pete Wells writes of the Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives host's Big Apple venture.
"Did you notice that the menu was an unreliable predictor of what actually came to the table?" Wells snipes. "Were you struck by how very far from awesome the Awesome Pretzel Chicken Tenders are? If you hadn't come up with the recipe yourself, would you ever guess that the shiny tissue of breading that exudes grease onto the plate contains either pretzels or smoked almonds? Did you discern any buttermilk or brine in the white meat, or did you think it tasted like chewy air?"
"Does this make it sound as if everything at Guy’s American Kitchen & Bar is inedible? I didn't say that, did I?" Wells writes, praising "appealing main dishes" marred by "ruinous sides and sauces."
Bemoaning the cold french fries, vegetable sides that taste "deadened" and "overcooked" like "school cafeteria vegetables," toasted marshallow that "taste like fish," Wells gives the eatery a "poor" rating with a "chaotic" atmosphere.
He adds of the service: "The well-meaning staff seems to realize that this is not a real restaurant."